Jose Villarreal in Cypress, TX on Houzz
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Cypress: 281-256-2239
Houston: 346-319-2029

Joe The Plumber Earns Esteemed 2016 Angie’s List Super Service Award

  • By lemaster
  • 07 Feb, 2017

Consistent high level of customer service

Joe The Plumber, LLC has earned the home service industry’s coveted Angie’s List Super Service Award, reflecting an exemplary year of customer service to members of the local services marketplace and consumer review site in 2016.

This achievement is particularly significant as Angie’s List experienced unprecedented member growth in 2016. More than 1.6 million consumers, many of whom were eager to quickly hire highly qualified service pros, joined Angie’s List after the company added a new, free membership tier.

“Companies that can meet higher demands without missing a beat in their exemplary performance standards truly do stand apart from their peers,” said Angie’s List Founder Angie Hicks. “Only a fraction of the Plumbing companies in Houston, TX were able to do it.”

Angie’s List Super Service Award 2016 winners have met strict eligibility requirements, which include an “A” rating in overall grade, recent grade, and review period grade. The SSA winners must also be in good standing with Angie’s List, pass a background check and abide by Angie’s List operational guidelines.

“We are so proud to be awarded the 2016 Angie’s List Super Service Award. We couldn’t be more proud of our plumbers and office staff who work hard every day for the success we have accomplished in these past couple of years.”- Joe The Plumber, LLC.

Service company ratings are updated daily on Angie’s List as new, verified consumer reviews are submitted. Companies are graded on an A through F scale in areas ranging from price to professionalism to punctuality.

For more than 21 years, Angie’s List restricted access to its verified reviews to consumers who paid membership fees. When the company removed that barrier, some companies worried that the new, non-paying members would not be as engaged as members of the past. Experience has shown, however, that these newly added members are just as engaged – across all age groups – as prior members. Also, because the company continues to adhere to its review verification process, there has been no degradation of review quality.

“The biggest change at Angie’s List is that we are connecting even more consumers to high quality service professionals,” Hicks said. “And that’s good for everyone.”

Angie's List helps facilitate happy transactions between more than 4.5 million consumers nationwide and its collection of highly rated service providers in more than 720 categories of service, ranging from home improvement to health care. Built on a foundation of more than 10 million verified reviews of local service, Angie's List connects consumers directly to its online marketplace of services from member-reviewed providers, and offers unique tools and support designed to improve the local service experience for both consumers and service professionals.
By proadAccountId-361762 11 May, 2017

Over time, a tankless water heater can accumulate minerals that can build up on and erode the walls inside your tank's heating chamber. To properly maintain and clean your tankless water heater, you must flush and remove the mineral deposits from your tank at least once per year. Continue reading to learn how you can maintain your tankless water heater to ensure its optimal performance and efficiency.


1.  Turn off the power source for your tankless water heater.

This can be done by shutting off the main gas or turning off the circuit breaker for electrical devices.

2.  Close and turn off the 3 water valves attached to your thankless water heater.

This procedure will prevent cold water from flowing into the water heater and prevent hot water from coming out during the cleaning process.

The water valves consist of a cold water valve that may be colored blue, a hot water valve that may be colored red, and a third main valve that runs the water into your home.

3.  Remove the purge port valve caps slowly from the purge valves located on each of the cold and hot water valves.

The purge valves have small handles that resemble the letter "T."

This procedure is done to relieve any pressure that has built inside the valves and will prevent excess hot water from shooting out and coming into contact with your skin.

There may be pressure when removing the purge port valve caps, so it is extremely important to make sure the hot water valve is completely and accurately shut off for safety purposes.

Handle each cap carefully to make sure the rubber washer sealing discs stay in place, which are needed for your valves to function properly.

4.  Attach your hosing lines to each of the 3 valves.

If the manufacturer of your tankless water heater did not provide you with hosing lines, you can purchase them from any retail store specializing in home repair or water heaters. The hosing lines must be long enough to reach between the water heater and your bucket.

You may need to consult your manual provided by the tankless water heater's manufacturer or contact the manufacturer directly for exact instructions regarding this procedure.

In some cases, this procedure may require you to use a sump pump and connect hoses that will discharge and flush water from the thankless water heater using the cold and hot water valves.

5.  Open the purge port valves by twisting them perpendicularly to the position of the cold and hot valves.

Use 2.5 gallons (9.46 liters) of undiluted white vinegar to clean your thankless water heater at all times instead of chemical solutions.

Since your thankless water heater is most likely the source of all your drinking water and bathing water, using chemical cleaning solutions may be extremely harmful to your health.

6.  Perform the flushing and draining procedure by following the directions provided by the manufacturer of your tankless water heater.

This procedure may take up to 45 minutes.

Image titled Maintain a Thankless Water Heater Step 88

Close the purge port valves by twisting the "T"-shaped handles after the flushing process has been completed.

7.  Disconnect and remove the hosing lines from each water valve.

Replace the purge port valve caps onto the purge valves.

Tighten the caps completely and firmly without breaking the rubber sealing discs located inside the caps.

8.  Refer to the manufacturer's manual of your tankless water heater for exact instructions on how to safely re-start your water heater.

This procedure may just require you to rotate and open the cold and hot water valves so they are parallel to the position of the main valve that leads into the house.

9.  Turn on the hot water tap in your sink slowly to allow the air to pass through the pipe.

Continue to run the water until it runs steadily without air escaping.

This procedure may take up to 2 or 3 minutes. 


By proadAccountId-361762 01 May, 2017

Toilet clogs seem to happen at the most inopportune moments. Fortunately, you can clear most clogs yourself without having to pay a plumber. Most clogs can be cleared with a good plunger or homemade drain cleaner made with hot water, baking soda and vinegar. For deeper clogs, try snaking the drain or using a wet/dry vacuum to do the job.

1.   Keep the toilet from overflowing.

If your toilet doesn't flush properly after one flush, don't flush again. This will cause more water to be pumped into the toilet bowl. Instead, take the lid off of the toilet tank and close the toilet flapper. Closing the flapper will keep more water from entering the bowl.

2.   Prep the bathroom.

In case splashing occurs, place newspapers or paper towels on the floor to soak up liquid. The paper will make for easier cleanup later. You should also turn on the ventilation fan or open a window to minimize foul odors.

3.   See if you can clear the obstruction.

If you can see the cause of the clog, reach in and remove it from the toilet if possible. If you can't clear it with your hands, but you know there's an object (such as a child's toy) causing the clog, skip the plunging and go straight to another method.

4.   Use a high quality plunger.

It is important to use a large heavy-duty rubber plunger, either the ball-shaped type or one with a fold-out rubber flange on the bottom which forms a seal.

5.   Insert the plunger into the bowl.

Make sure the plunger completely covers the hole. The plunger should be submerged in water to be effective. It is important to be pushing and pulling with water, not air. Add water from the sink to the bowl if necessary.

Pump the plunger over the hole. Start slowly at first, since the first plunge will push air into the bowl. Push down, then pull up sharply to disturb the clog and loosen it. Continue vigorously pushing and pulling until the water begins to drain.

6.   Flush the toilet to check the drainage.

If the plunging eventually drains the bowl, but the clog is still blocking a free flow down the drain, leave the plunger in the bowl and fill the bowl with water again.

Fill it to the point it is normally after a regular flush, then plunge again. Stubborn clogs might require you to do this a number of times.

7.   Purchase an enzyme waste removal product.

Look for a product that contains a mixture of enzymes that liquify waste materials. These enzymes are used in septic systems to break down waste, follow the instructions on the container.

Pour the recommended amount of the enzyme product into the toilet bowl. You will typically be instructed to wait overnight for the enzymes to go to work on the clog. The toilet should drain once the clog has cleared.

8.   Heat half a gallon of water.

If the toilet tends to clog easily as the result of trying to flush too much waste, using a combination of hot water, baking soda and vinegar will often do the job as well as a commercial drain cleaner. Boil half a gallon of water, then let it cool for a moment while you add other ingredients to the toilet bowl. The water should be no hotter than a hot tea you can drink comfortably.

It should not be boiling, since very hot water can crack porcelain. You want to raise the temperature of the water passing around or pressing on the clog.

9.   Pour 1 cup baking soda and 2 cups vinegar into the toilet.

The baking soda and vinegar create a chemical process that help to dissolve clogs.

Distilled white vinegar is commonly used, but any type of vinegar will work. The mixture will fizz a great deal.

10.                 Add Soap.

If you don't have baking soda and vinegar on hand, try adding a few squirts of dish soap to the toilet bowl.

The soap may help to loosen the clog. our the hot water into the bowl. Pour it from waist level, rather than right near the rim. The force of the water falling into the bowl can help to clear the clog.

Let the mixture stand overnight. In the morning, the water should have drained. This homemade drain cleaner should successfully clear clogs caused by organic material. If the water won't flush on your second try, you may have hard obstruction causing the clog. Try using a wire coat hanger or a drain snake.

11.                 Purchase a chemical drain cleaner.

They're available at most grocery, hardware, and "big box" stores.

Use this method only as a last resort. The chemicals used in drain cleaners are toxic to people and pets, corrosive to pipes and very damaging to the environment. Only use chemicals that are specifically made for toilets. Using other drain cleaners may damage your toilet.

* If you suspect that there is a hard obstruction, do not use a chemical solution. Instead, use a snake or call a plumber.

Do you want to know more details? Go to Wiky How

By proadAccountId-361762 18 Apr, 2017

Changing your refrigerator water filter is the kind of routine maintenance that can be easily put off, but just like the batteries in your smoke alarm or the oil in your car, it’s important to keep a regular schedule.

Most manufacturer guidelines recommend that you replace your water filters every six months. Of course, these guidelines are based more on broad situations – rather than your specific situation. If your family uses a heavier than average amount of water, your filter could expire early, meaning it will no longer be reducing particulates and contaminants effectively. In fact, if you wait too long, your old refrigerator water filter may actually be growing bacteria and mold.

So how do you know when it’s time to change your refrigerator water filter?

You may notice a “decreased flow.” Your ice maker may have stopped making ice cubes plural, and decided to make one dirty singular cube, instead. Of course, most refrigerators will also have a status indicator light in your fridge that can give you a helpful idea.

But overall, the most effective way to determine if your refrigerator water filter is shot is simply to explore your palate for an unpleasant taste or odor. The type of contaminants reduced by a properly functioning filter will appear more and more as your filter ages. And when it gets to the point that you start to notice – whether that’s three months, six months – or even nine months – it’s time to make a change.

If your refrigerator dispenses water, chances are it uses a water filter. And if it’s been a long time since you’ve replaced it, the inside of it may be clogged with some of the gunk and the crusty ice cubes below are likely an all too familiar image, it’s time to make a change
By proadAccountId-361762 13 Apr, 2017

Blue water stains are due to a corrosion and are directly related to copper water lines in the home. In some instances this phenomenon manifests itself shortly after a new plumbing system is put into continuous service and then eventually goes away. Notice of this situation occurs, and concern generally arises, when it causes a slight blue or green discoloration in the water or, more commonly on surfaces that come in contact with the water such as plumbing fixtures. Electrolysis and or high acidity can contribute to staining and is often found in untreated water systems such as well water in a forested area with pine trees.

The majority of high copper level cases or blue water staining is caused by interaction between the copper tube wall and elements or compounds in the water. Fabrication of the tube is not normally found to be a factor in high copper level occurrences. This is because the smooth drawing of the tube through the blocks requires a consistent alloy structure. Tubes that may have an inclusion in the tube wall or inconsistencies in the make-up of the alloy tend to collapse, bend, or break during drawing and never get to the marketplace.

Discoloration occurs due to a fine dispersion of copper corrosion in the water conveyed by the system. Elevated copper levels may be a result of either dissolved copper, particulate copper, or both. Usually in cases where this occurs, the inside surface of the tube will be covered by a loosely adhering powdery scale or, if the water velocities in the system are high, no scale will be present. Instead there will be a general dissolution or corrosion of the copper resulting in a high sheen on the inside of the copper tube wall.

Typically stain will occur in fixtures serviced by water with low pH. It generally is characterized by elevated levels of dissolved copper in the water. However it does not usually result in high levels of particulate copper, or suspended copper corrosion products in the water.

The best way to get rid of this occurrence is to have your water tested by a reputable filter company. They will make recommendations for the best whole house filter. Usually a Calcite Filter will do the job.

By proadAccountId-361762 10 Apr, 2017

Copper is the top choice among homeowners for about 85 percent of new home construction. But as the price of copper continues to rise, plastic pipes are becoming more popular (Plastic tubing PVC (polyvinyl chloride), ABS (acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene) PE (polyethylene) and PEX (cross-linked polyethylene.)

Plastic plumbing pipe: is relatively stable, resists corrosion, is strong and flame-retardant and is flexible, so there’s rarely a problem with “water hammer”, that banging and knocking noise you sometimes hear in metal pipes when you turn the water on or off. It could reduce pressure leaks at solder joints and is easier than copper for the handy do-it-yourselfer to repair and install.

Some drawbacks to plastic pipes: some people complain that they give their drinking water a plastic taste. The inside of the pipes could be more susceptible than copper to growing bacteria. Some homeowners are shying away from plastic water piping citing health concerns.

Copper plumbing pipe: is durable as long as the water isn’t highly acidic, is fire resistant and even earthquake tolerant, every building code accepts copper plumbing, its joints aren’t bulky, its small external diameter means it can fit into tight spots, could increase the resale value of your home.

Some drawbacks to copper pipes: they’re expensive because the price of copper fluctuates with the demand for raw materials. Some homeowners report a metallic taste to their drinking water. Pinhole leaks in copper pipes can spring when a home’s water is too acidic. In fact, copper is best suited for use when the pH of the water is between 6.5 and 8.5. They can be difficult to install, especially if the job requires the use of a gas torch.

Which one is right for your home?

Your best bet is to ask a professional plumber to help you decide.

Your choice will depend on your budget, the acidity of your water, how long you intend to live in your home and which material your trusted Arizona plumber has the most confidence in.

If your home already has copper pipes, for instance, the plumber might advise you to stick with copper for repairs; same with plastic replacements if your home already has plastic pipes. And if you live in an older home with galvanized steel pipes, your plumber almost certainly will advise you to leave repairs to a pro.

As one of my plumber friends likes to say, homeowner’s who tackle galvanized pipe problems on their own are “treading where angels fear to go.” Same goes if you live in a house with a polybutylene plumbing system. That’s one you want to replace, not repair. If it isn’t leaking yet, it’s just a matter of time before it does. If your home’s PB plumbing was installed between 1978 and 1995 and it leaks, you may qualify for free replacement as the result of a class-action lawsuit.

By proadAccountId-361762 06 Apr, 2017

You know you can save water by turning off the tap while you brush your teeth, “letting it mellow” and taking care not to waste it while cooking and cleaning. But did you know this direct water use only makes up a small portion of all the water you use? There is way more water – also known as virtual water – in the food, goods and services you consume.

Read on to learn how to save water in the bathroom (be sure to check out our tips for the laundry and energy use), and take our Water Footprint Calculator to find out how much water you use directly and indirectly each day.

In the Shower

Put a bucket in the shower while you're waiting for the water to warm up, and use the water you catch for watering plants, flushing the toilet or cleaning.

Install a low-flow showerhead. It may cost you some money up front, but your water conservation efforts will save you money down the road. Conventional showerheads flow at 5 gallons per minute or more, whereas low-flow showerheads typically flow at 2.5 gallons per minute (or less!).

Spend less time in the shower. If you lose track of time, bring a radio into the bathroom and time yourself by how many songs play while you're in there. Try to get your shower time down to a single song (epic rock ballads like Free bird don’t count!).

Turn off the water if you shave or brush your teeth in the shower to save time.

In the Bathtub

Think of baths as an occasional treat and stick to showers. The average bath uses 35 to 50 gallons of water, whereas a 10-minute shower with a low-flow showerhead only uses 25 gallons.

At the Sink

Turn off the water while you brush your teeth and shave.

Install low-flow faucet aerators in your sinks - you can save gallons of water each time you use the tap. Conventional faucets flow as high as 3 gallons per minute, but low-flow faucets flow at 1.5 gallons per minute.

Fix those leaky faucets. That constant drip is more than just annoying; it’s also a huge waste of water. You can lose more than 20 gallons of water a day from a single drippy faucet!


Get a low-flow toilet. Flushing is the biggest water hog in the house. Older, conventional toilets can use 5 to 7 gallons per flush, but low-flow models use as little as 1.6 gallons. Since the average person flushes five times a day, the gallons can really add up.


If you can’t replace your higher volume toilet, put a plastic bottle filled with water in your toilet tank to reduce the amount of water used per flush.

To check for a toilet leak, put dye or food coloring into the tank. If color appears in the bowl without flushing, there’s a leak that should be repaired.

“If its yellow, let it mellow.” The saying may be cliché, but it’s good advice. If you're grossed-out by the “yellow,” just put the toilet lid down.

Don’t flush things down the toilet to dispose of them. Throw tissues and other bathroom waste in the garbage can, which doesn’t require gallons of water.

By proadAccountId-361762 04 Apr, 2017

A leaky faucet, you can handle. But bathroom and kitchen faucets present so many more challenges. Their odd noises range from screeching, clanking and squeaking, and you may encounter spraying or consistency problems. Here's how to fix cranky faucets without a plumber. Check out previous excerpts here:

By proadAccountId-361762 14 Mar, 2017

A musty smell in a home is a result of inadequate cleaning, poor or stagnant air circulation, high humidity and possible moisture problems.

If you've ever noticed an odd smell coming from old furniture, clothing or books, or in a poorly ventilated area such as the attic or basement, you have a problem with mold, mildew or fungi.

If the mold and mildew growth is heavy it might look like   an area of pink, orange, blue, black or green discoloration- on the other hand, if the fungi growth is light you might not be able to see where it is, though you can definitely smell it.

Old furniture is often musty and puts off a smell that I can only describe as a   combination of mold and rotten eggs.   The odor may start out as a minor annoyance but will eventually get to the point where the air in your home is bad for your health. So once you start smelling a musty, moldy odor, it’s time to take care of it. The poor air quality and odor problem won't stop on it's own and will only get worse.

Molds and fungi are not healthy for your lungs. Mold spores and noxious gases they put off are aggravating to your health. If you have breathing problems or the smell is particularly bothersome you may want to wear a mask while cleaning it up.

Possible Locations and Causes of Musty Odors:

First you need to figure out exactly where the problem is and what is causing the odor:

Water Leaks:

The smell is not caused by the water leaking into your house itself, it’s caused by   molds and fungi that are growing where the water is pooling.

As they grow in number, mold and mildew put off a sulfur containing gas we all can easily identify. Once established, fungi can easily spread to other areas of a home so it's important to get rid of any water leaks as soon as they’re discovered. Wet basements, leaky faucets and pipes are a common culprit.

Wet Wood:

If wood remains damp it will start to rot and give off an earthy musty smell. Once again,   molds and fungi will grow just like it will on any other organic material.

If you should see dark stains on wooden items, chances are that they’re becoming wet from a leak somewhere and molds and fungi are growing.

This can happen to an item left in a storage shed that water happens to drip on, or it can happen to the baseboard in your home that might have a water pipe leaking behind it.

Leaking roofs allow rain inside which often follows gravity right up to a beam or other supporting structure in a home. Wet wood will continue to rot and allow mold and mildew growth until the source of moisture is stopped.

Damp Walls:

If walls in your home are starting to look very rundown, take the time to look behind them. Most walls are made of drywall which is gypsum or plaster in between 2 sheets of paper.

Mold and mildew will grow on the paper backing and it will darken in color, start to flake, blister or peel off.

Start by looking in the area with the heaviest discoloration for moisture leaks. Chances are pretty good that either molds or fungi or both are growing behind the walls and will have to be removed.

Mold and mildew that covers more than a very small section of the wall will likely indicate a serious problem and the section of wall might need to be removed and replaced by a professional.

High Humidity Locations -Bathroom/Laundry Room

Molds and fungi love bathrooms and laundry rooms. Both are warm, moist and often leak. Basements, attics, crawl spaces and air-conditioner vents are great homes for molds and fungi.

If you start to see   stains on the floors, ceilings or walls, molds and fungi may be growing. Clean the area right away to keep it from spreading further. If it's in a moist area where standing water is common, a good scrubbing along with a spray of 50/50 water and bleach will remove mold and mildew almost instantly.

Damp Furniture/Drapery Fabric:

Fabric that   is moist or in area of high humidity   can be a breeding ground for molds and fungi.

Damp or Moist Carpet and Rugs:

Carpets and area rugs trap dirt, hold moisture and can become wet or saturated in the case of plumbing leaks or a cracked foundation. Dust and dirt will settle in the fibers and give off a bad odor if not cleaned occasionally.

Removing Musty Odors from Hard Surfaces:

  • Vinegar   kills molds, mildews and fungi. Use full strength if you should see areas of any of the above.
  • Lemon juice and water   the acidity in a lemon and water solution will wipe out musty odors quickly.
  • Soap and water   will help to remove the any remnants of the offending mold or fungi that might still be present. Dry after cleaning so that you don’t leave moisture for new growth.
  • Baking soda   removes odors. After using either vinegar or lemon juice and water, and then the soap and water, baking soda can be spread over a musty area to get out any residual smells.
  • A dry vapor steam cleaner   will kill most molds.

Deodorizing and Cleaning Mildewy Carpets:

Look under the carpet to see if the carpet pad is mildewed. If it is, remove that part of the pad and replace.

Clean with Vinegar:

Clean the moldy part of the carpet with a solution of one cup of white vinegar to half a cup of warm water. Then scrub the mildewed area to remove mold. Turn a fan on the wet spot to dry it quickly.

Sprinkle with Borax:

Spread borax on the entire dry carpet. Borax will treat mold, mildew and fungi and keep it from reappearing. Let the borax sit for half an hour or so and then vacuum it up completely.

Furniture/Drapery Fabric:

Vacuum upholstered furniture or drapes thoroughly with a vacuum. Use a vacuum with a HEPA filter to remove mold spores from the circulating air.

Steam clean or dry clean the item, dry with a clean towel to remove additional traces of moisture. Move the piece to an area with good air circulation to dry completely.

Preventing Musty Smells From Returning:

Once the musty odors are gone, it’s best to try to prevent molds and mildews from regrowing.

Reduce Humidity

A dehumidifier or air conditioner will keep the air in your home drier which will   help prevent new growth of molds and fungi.   It will also help to remove musty odors by replacing old air with new, fresh air. Follow manufacturers recommendations on cleaning your dehumidifier and air conditioner filters to reduce mold, mildew, and odors from being recycled back into the air.

Increase Air Circulation

Increased air circulation   reduces overall moisture in affected areas. A fan or cracked window will help to keep the air fresh.

Lighten Up

All molds and mildew prefer low light conditions. Turning the lights up helps to retard their growth.

By proadAccountId-361762 06 Mar, 2017

 From: The  Plumbing Handbook

In designing the plumbing system for a new house, a plumbing contractor will endeavor to make it as noiseless as possible.

Manufacturers of plumbing fixings are making every effort to reduce the noise connected with the operation of their equipment, and contractors have been very successful in eliminating much of the noise formerly associated with plumbing systems.

Because so much of the noise is due to water traveling at a high velocity, it follows that whatever can be done to reduce the velocity of the water will correspondingly reduce the noise in the system. It is for this reason that it is so important not to skimp on the size of the water supply piping. Larger pipe will not only provide a more adequate supply of water but will reduce noise.

There are three general types of noises found in some of the older plumbing systems. These are water hammer, whistling and chattering.


1. Water hammer is the thump in the piping heard when faucets or valves are turned off abruptly. There is no excuse for water hammer. It can usually be eliminated by the installation of an air chamber or short length of pipe in the wall where each supply pipe enters a plumbing fixture.

In some cases, however, the ordinary type of air chamber will not prevent water hammer. In such cases, special devices known as shock arrestors should be installed on the main line near the meter or as close as possible to the cause of the noise.

Sometimes water hammer is due not to the plumbing in the house in which it is heard but to a condition outside of the house, either along the water main or in a neighboring house. In such cases, skillful detective work by an experienced master plumber is necessary to ferret out the source of the trouble and to plan corrective methods.

Water hammer should not be permitted to go on indefinitely. The noise is only an audible symptom of what is going on in the piping. The piping is being subjected to the wear and tear of a multitude of shock waves. The result will be leaks in piping, tanks or fixtures unless the condition is corrected.


2. Chattering in the piping may be caused by loose pipes, by pipes rubbing against a metal projection, by worn faucet washers or looseness of other inside parts.


3. Whistling is caused by the speed of water flowing through piping which is usually too small. A pressure reducing valve will help as will a general straightening out of the plumbing system. Whistling is most common at bends and tees in the pipe.

By proadAccountId-361762 01 Mar, 2017

If you're facing a plumbing problem that you're unequipped to handle on your own, then the benefits of hiring a licensed plumber may or may not be obvious to you. Maybe you know of a local handyman who says he can fix it for a very reasonable price. Perhaps some plumbers who advertise in your area are unlicensed, but assure you that a license is no real indication of talent or skill.

As temping as it can be to cut prices by hiring somebody without license, you should resist. Unless you're dealing with a trusted family member or friend whose work you've seen first-hand, an unlicensed plumber can, in the long run, cost you much more money than you'll save in the beginning.

Why Plumbers Become Licensed

Like any other industry, the plumbing industry requires (in many areas) that a plumber complete a test, have a certain number of hours working as an apprentice, or display some other similar test of knowledge before they can become licensed. This license may be certified by the state, municipality, or country in which the plumber will be working.

Obtaining such a license shows the industry, and potential clients, several things. It displays a willingness to comply with all current laws, regulations and safety measures recommended, instead of relying on outdated and potentially harmful methods. It also shows that the plumber wants his clients to know that he's a professional. This shows dedication to his field, distinguishing him from somebody who may look at plumbing as a way to simply make extra money on the side.

There are several professional organizations that provide ongoing education, and licensing often means that a plumber is taking advantage of this education. This is once of the many benefits of hiring a licensed plumber, since classes that demonstrate the newest products and methods ensure knowledge and dependability.

What's the Harm in Hiring a Plumber Without a License?

Anybody looking for work can be very convincing, if they are unlicensed, that they will do just as good of a job as somebody with a license. While this may be true, you're still better off to hire a licensed plumber.

The training that a licensed plumber goes through ensures that they are up-to-date and current. Somebody unlicensed may be using outdated methods, which can lead to costly mistakes.

Licensed plumbers are usually required to carry insurance. This can save you thousands. If the plumber is injured while working on your property, their insurance will cover their medical care. If there is no insurance, you could be stuck paying those high bills. Insurance, in many cases, can also ensure that the work the plumber does comes with assurance of quality. This might mean the difference between the plumber coming quickly to repair a small resulting leak for free, and waiting for another plumber to come and fix the first plumber's full price.

As you can see, there are many benefits of hiring a licensed plumber, and really no disadvantages. You will pay a little more in most cases, but when you think about the hassle and potential cost of hiring somebody unlicensed, you'll see that you truly get what you pay for.

Posted by:   TrustedPros

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