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How to turn off your main water supply

  • By proadAccountId-361762
  • 29 Jun, 2017

In case of a plumbing emergency, it is always a good idea to educate yourself on how (and where) to turn off your main water supply – as well as the isolation valves on your various plumbing fixtures. A ruptured line, burst pipe, or sewage backup can wreak havoc on your home and potentially cost you thousands in water damage and water bills.

In severe cold weather, the water in your pipes can freeze. When water freezes, it expands and can burst the pipe, not matter how thick or strong it may be. But, if it’s too late and the pipe has already burst, turn off your main water valve as fast as you can to prevent further damages.

Being able to contain the situation as soon as possible will greatly help with damage control and allow a wider window of time for help to arrive (if the situation calls for it). Everyone in your home should know exactly where the water shutoff valve is located and how to turn it off.

Additionally, if you are going to be away from your home for an extended period of time, it is highly recommended that you turn off the main water valve.

Where is the main water shutoff valve located?

This is the million-dollar question. Your main water shutoff valve could be located in several different areas. If you have a home with a basement and crawlspace, it is probably located on an interior wall near the front of the house, where the water comes in from the water meter. In this case, it is most likely hiding in plain sight. If your home was built on a slab, the valve might be located near the hot water heater or inside your garage.

WARNING : Never touch the pressure regulator, located just above the shutoff valve. Only a licensed plumber should adjust your water pressure.

If the valve can’t be found inside the home, the next location to check is near the end of your property line (or street) in a covered box within a “pit” underground. This is normally a cement box buried in the ground near your front curb; however, you may need a special “meter key” (available at local hardware stores, like Ace Hardware, Lowe’s, and Home Depot) to open the box.

Once you fit the meter key into the “lock,” turn it counter-clockwise, and then tilt the key toward the outer edge of the box to lift the lid open. Be careful when opening the box. Sometimes, small critters, reptiles, bugs, and other surprises are waiting for you.

Let's watch the video to know how turn off your Water Meter:

https://youtu.be/a_P44FBxgMY

By Hiller (http://happyhiller.com/how-to-find-shut-off-main-water-shutoff-valve/)

By proadAccountId-361762 07 Jul, 2017

When it comes to simple kitchen plumbing repair, you don’t have to be an expert plumber. Not to take away business from the plumbers but it would be a waste of money to hire an expert to come in and fix a small leak that could be fixed by a simple tightening of the pipes or a simple replacement. Here are 5 tips to make the job as easy as possible.

Tip 1: Know Your Kitchen Sink Plumbing Parts

You will have to become familiar with the components that drain the water down your kitchen sink before you can begin to repair it. This understanding will give you the knowledge to be able to troubleshoot problems.

It starts by a strainer that is fitted into a strainer body that’s sealed with putty into the sink hole. Below that a rubber gasket and metal washer, which helps seal the connection, is tightened by a large retainer or locknut. A threaded coupling mounts a tailpiece to the strainer.

At the tee in the drainpipe, a short threaded nipple and the main parts of the trap are connected by slip-joint couplings. The trap, which is a curvature in the piping, has the purpose of preventing sewer gases from coming up the piping and into the home and is always filled with water. The water along with the curvature acts as a water seal. The waste water will flow through the trap to the main.

If there is a garbage disposal, it will be connected above the trap and mounted to its own special strainer. There are different types of disposals and set ups. You should refer to the owner’s manual of the garbage disposal to become familiar with the set-up to better understand possible problems.

Know that the plumbing will be directly below the sink. Take care not to confuse the plumbing with gas supply pipes.

Tip 2: Examine the Leak

Different types of leaks require different repairs. There is a difference when the leak is around the base of the spout as opposed to a spout that drips. A spout base leakage is caused by O-rings that are worn out. They can be easily removed by pulling up on the spout and wiggling it free. You may also need to remove other parts such as the handle. The O-ring can be lodged into place pretty good so it may take some determination to remove it.

Tip 3: Turn Off the Water Supply

There are usually two valves underneath the sink that turn off the water supply, one for cold water and one for hot. You will have to shut off your main if there are no valves under the sink. This will prevent a horrible mess and the need to rent a wet/dry vacuum.

Tip 4: Repair Leaks Timely

The floorboard beneath your kitchen sink will most often be made of wood. Wood will be warped and damaged when exposed to water or a long period of time. In addition to the warping, there is also the trouble of mold and buildup of waste water sediment that will give your kitchen a foul odor.

 

Tip 5: Know When to Get Help

While most repairs can be done by you with the only cost being a replacement part or the energy it takes to tighten a bolt, there are other repairs that require a professionally trained person. If you find yourself fixing the same problem over and over again, you may need bigger repairs and a more thorough replacement of your kitchen components. Damage caused by you may be more than the original cost of having somebody repair the initial problem.

By proadAccountId-361762 29 Jun, 2017

In case of a plumbing emergency, it is always a good idea to educate yourself on how (and where) to turn off your main water supply – as well as the isolation valves on your various plumbing fixtures. A ruptured line, burst pipe, or sewage backup can wreak havoc on your home and potentially cost you thousands in water damage and water bills.

In severe cold weather, the water in your pipes can freeze. When water freezes, it expands and can burst the pipe, not matter how thick or strong it may be. But, if it’s too late and the pipe has already burst, turn off your main water valve as fast as you can to prevent further damages.

Being able to contain the situation as soon as possible will greatly help with damage control and allow a wider window of time for help to arrive (if the situation calls for it). Everyone in your home should know exactly where the water shutoff valve is located and how to turn it off.

Additionally, if you are going to be away from your home for an extended period of time, it is highly recommended that you turn off the main water valve.

Where is the main water shutoff valve located?

This is the million-dollar question. Your main water shutoff valve could be located in several different areas. If you have a home with a basement and crawlspace, it is probably located on an interior wall near the front of the house, where the water comes in from the water meter. In this case, it is most likely hiding in plain sight. If your home was built on a slab, the valve might be located near the hot water heater or inside your garage.

WARNING : Never touch the pressure regulator, located just above the shutoff valve. Only a licensed plumber should adjust your water pressure.

If the valve can’t be found inside the home, the next location to check is near the end of your property line (or street) in a covered box within a “pit” underground. This is normally a cement box buried in the ground near your front curb; however, you may need a special “meter key” (available at local hardware stores, like Ace Hardware, Lowe’s, and Home Depot) to open the box.

Once you fit the meter key into the “lock,” turn it counter-clockwise, and then tilt the key toward the outer edge of the box to lift the lid open. Be careful when opening the box. Sometimes, small critters, reptiles, bugs, and other surprises are waiting for you.

Let's watch the video to know how turn off your Water Meter:

https://youtu.be/a_P44FBxgMY

By proadAccountId-361762 20 Jun, 2017

Why Won't My Dishwasher Drain?

By Timothy Dahl

 

If you've recently installed a new garbage disposal, that might be why your dishwasher is plugged up.

A clogged dishwasher that won't drain is a common and disgusting kitchen issue, but the problem might not be the dishwasher itself. Rather, it could be your newly installed garbage disposal.

If you've got a water sitting in the bottom of your dishwasher, the first thing you want to do is check the drain plugs for blockage in the dishwasher pan. Large chunks of food and other items may be preventing the dishwasher from draining. If the drains are clear, then move along to the draining tube which often dumps into your garbage disposal.

The top rubber tube drains the dishwasher into the garbage disposal. The port on a new garbage disposal will have a plastic plug inside. If that plastic plug isn't popped out, then the dishwasher won't drain and the water will pool back into the washer.

Unplug your garbage disposal before working on it. To remove the plastic plug, simply release the clamp holding the rubber tube and pull it off.

Then take a screwdriver and feel for the plug. If the screwdriver pushes all the way into the disposal, you've got a blockage somewhere else. But if you can feel the plastic plug then you've found your issue.

 

Use a hammer to lightly bang against the back of the screwdriver and punch out the plastic plug. Make sure you've removed it around all of the edges. Reach into the top of the disposal through the sink and pull the plug out and any remaining plastic pieces. Then reattach the hose and your dishwasher should now drain properly.

Need help?

Contact us at Joe the Plumber . We wake care of all your plumbing needs!

By proadAccountId-361762 19 Jun, 2017

By: Light Foot Mechanical

You invested in a water filtration system to ensure that you can easily get clean, safe and healthy water for your whole family at home. You can rely on your water filters for quick and easy drinking water when you’re in a rush, and it has become part of your daily routine. However, without regular and proper maintenance, your filtration system can become less effective at removing contaminants from your water, leaving a less pleasant taste in the liquid you drink every day.Water Filtration - Clean Water

It is quick and easy to get in the habit of cleaning and maintaining your water filter system on a regular basis, which will help to enhance the effective and efficient performance, making it last longer. Consider trying some of these hints and tips to improve the lifespan of your filtration system.

Regular cleaning routine

Cleaning the inside of your water filter system frequently and thoroughly is important to avoid a build-up of minerals, contaminants or dirt in the filter. Try not to use any harsh cleaning products and gently rinse the system with warm water. You do not want to add any harmful toxins to your system that could be absorbed into the water that you and your family drink. Make sure to clean all elements of the system, preferably on a weekly basis. Ensure you sanitize the different parts of the system when cleaning your water filter, including the water dispenser, line, and cap assembly.

The water softener that you use may contribute to a build-up of salt in your water filter, meaning you will need to clean your system more often. Newer water softeners are efficient in how salt is used in the water, causing the excess to sometimes form a blockage within the system. When cleaning out your water filter, simply switch off the system, remove the majority of the salt and use hot water to dissolve the blockage.

Remember to monitor your water filter whenever you use it, looking out for signs that it may need cleaning. There is often also a monitoring system on your water filter, which can differ depending on the brand or type you have.

By proadAccountId-361762 05 Jun, 2017

Where and When

There are several things that could cause your toilet to make gurgling sounds; a blockage in the toilet or drain for that toilet, a blockage in the vent stack leading up to the roof that may have a nest or leaves in it, or most commonly a main sewer drain blockage. The gurgling sound you hear is from air that escapes backwards into the toilet and is the first sign of a more serious issue occurring and a messy disaster waiting to show itself at the most inopportune time. - See more at: http://www.3wayplumbing.com/FAQ-Blog/ArtMID/1709/ArticleID/23/What-does-it-mean-when-I-hear-gurgling...

Not all gurgling sounds are caused by problems in the plumbing draining/venting system. It is normal to hear these sounds in the toilet at the end of every flush because of air suction into the toilet bowl.

Gurgling sounds are not normal when we flush the toilet and hear the sound coming from a nearby vanity sink or bathtub drain.

By proadAccountId-361762 01 Jun, 2017
What is a galvanized pipe you ask? Prior to the 1960s and through the 1980s, new homes were being built using galvanized pipe. It was a very popular and effective way to transport water throughout the home and a great alternative to lead pipes. A galvanized pipe is a steel pipe dipped in molten, naturally occurring zinc allowing us to safely drink water without the risk of contamination of rust or metals from the steel. Naturally occurring zinc is impure so these pipes may also have been contaminated with lead and other impurities.
By proadAccountId-361762 23 May, 2017

Accurate leak detection methods must be utilized to find leaks in a system and correctly address them. Listed below are the accepted methods of HFC leak detection and are the most common refrigerants you may encounter as a Service Technician, arranged in groups:

1. Soap Bubbles – Visible Method – Works with all refrigerants – Very accurate for pinpointing a leak

2. Fluorescent Dye – Visible Method – Works with all refrigerants – Must be added to refrigerant – Special UV Light required.

3. Electronic Leak Detectors – Currently the most popular method in use – Works with all refrigerants – Very accurate or very inaccurate, depending on sensor condition. Must be checked regularly against a calibrated reference leak to ensure accuracy.

The various electronic leak detectors are covered below. The information is not meant to steer you towards or away from any technology, but is for information purposes only.

a. Ultrasonic: Uses sound amplification. Acts on the high frequency sound pitch that occurs when gas passes through an orifice. This method may not be accurate on small leaks because not enough sound is generated through a small orifice.

b. Corona Discharge: Air is pulled through an energized electrical field around an electrode. Refrigerant gases are broken down by the electric arc (corona discharge) and detected by the sensor. The presence of a detectable gas changes the current flow in the electrode and triggers an alarm. Gases other than refrigerant can trigger an alarm, giving the appearance of a leak when there may not be one (false alarm). The sensor may degrade over time and need to be replaced. It should be checked regularly against a calibrated reference leak to ensure correct operation. Do not use in the presence of combustible gases.

c. Heated Diode: Air is pulled over a heated diode. Halogenated gases are broken down by the heater resulting in a change in current flow through the diode. The change in current through the diode triggers an alarm. The heated diode sensor is sensitive to excess refrigerant in addition to other contaminates such as moisture and oil resulting in sensor degradation. Because of sensor degradation, the heated diode sensor must be checked regularly for accuracy and replaced within 100 hours of use. When exposed to contamination including excess refrigerant, the sensor could fail much more quickly. For this reason, sensors must be checked regularly against a calibrated reference leak to ensure correct operation. Do not use in the presence of combustible gases.

d. Heated Electrolyte: Air is pulled over a heater that is in the presence of an electrolytic material that reacts with the broken down halogenated refrigerant gasses. Halogenated gases result in a change in current flow between the heater electrode and the electrolyte which triggers an alarm. Like the heated diode sensor, the electrolytic sensor is sensitive to excess refrigerant and other contaminants resulting in sensor degradation. Excess refrigerant exposure can have a quick impact on sensor life. A heated electrolyte detector must be checked regularly with a calibrated reference leak to ensure that it can accurately detect a refrigerant leak. Do not use in the presence of combustible gases.

e. Infrared: Air is pulled through an optical window in the infrared sensor. Refrigerant gases absorb IR Radiation. The optical sensor senses this and triggers an alarm, depending on how much IR has been absorbed. This technology is very accurate and has been the technology of choice in lab settings for many years. It has only recently (last 5 years approx.) been introduced to the field in the form of portable hand held leak detectors. The refrigerant isn’t broken down by heat and doesn’t directly contact the sensor, thus the sensor isn’t subject to contamination. Sensor life expectancy is over 1000 hours or the life of the leak detector. To ensure accuracy, the infrared detector should be checked regularly against a calibrated reference leak.

Electronic Leak Detectors designed for use with HFC refrigerants, no matter what sensor type is utilized, when properly maintained (including sensor replacement when necessary), all work very well.

Some are more susceptible to contamination – including exposure to excess refrigerant – than others. For this reason, never open a bottle of refrigerant and place the pickup tube in the refrigerant stream, as it can quickly ruin the sensor in your leak detector. Always use a calibrated reference leak to determine the accuracy of your sensor.

If your leak detector will trigger on the reference leak, it’s capable of finding any leak in the system you are checking. If not, replace the sensor.

By proadAccountId-361762 11 May, 2017

Over time, a tankless water heater can accumulate minerals that can build up on and erode the walls inside your tank's heating chamber. To properly maintain and clean your tankless water heater, you must flush and remove the mineral deposits from your tank at least once per year. Continue reading to learn how you can maintain your tankless water heater to ensure its optimal performance and efficiency.

Steps

1.  Turn off the power source for your tankless water heater.

This can be done by shutting off the main gas or turning off the circuit breaker for electrical devices.

2.  Close and turn off the 3 water valves attached to your thankless water heater.

This procedure will prevent cold water from flowing into the water heater and prevent hot water from coming out during the cleaning process.

The water valves consist of a cold water valve that may be colored blue, a hot water valve that may be colored red, and a third main valve that runs the water into your home.

3.  Remove the purge port valve caps slowly from the purge valves located on each of the cold and hot water valves.

The purge valves have small handles that resemble the letter "T."

This procedure is done to relieve any pressure that has built inside the valves and will prevent excess hot water from shooting out and coming into contact with your skin.

There may be pressure when removing the purge port valve caps, so it is extremely important to make sure the hot water valve is completely and accurately shut off for safety purposes.

Handle each cap carefully to make sure the rubber washer sealing discs stay in place, which are needed for your valves to function properly.

4.  Attach your hosing lines to each of the 3 valves.

If the manufacturer of your tankless water heater did not provide you with hosing lines, you can purchase them from any retail store specializing in home repair or water heaters. The hosing lines must be long enough to reach between the water heater and your bucket.

You may need to consult your manual provided by the tankless water heater's manufacturer or contact the manufacturer directly for exact instructions regarding this procedure.

In some cases, this procedure may require you to use a sump pump and connect hoses that will discharge and flush water from the thankless water heater using the cold and hot water valves.

5.  Open the purge port valves by twisting them perpendicularly to the position of the cold and hot valves.

Use 2.5 gallons (9.46 liters) of undiluted white vinegar to clean your thankless water heater at all times instead of chemical solutions.

Since your thankless water heater is most likely the source of all your drinking water and bathing water, using chemical cleaning solutions may be extremely harmful to your health.

6.  Perform the flushing and draining procedure by following the directions provided by the manufacturer of your tankless water heater.

This procedure may take up to 45 minutes.

Image titled Maintain a Thankless Water Heater Step 88

Close the purge port valves by twisting the "T"-shaped handles after the flushing process has been completed.

7.  Disconnect and remove the hosing lines from each water valve.

Replace the purge port valve caps onto the purge valves.

Tighten the caps completely and firmly without breaking the rubber sealing discs located inside the caps.

8.  Refer to the manufacturer's manual of your tankless water heater for exact instructions on how to safely re-start your water heater.

This procedure may just require you to rotate and open the cold and hot water valves so they are parallel to the position of the main valve that leads into the house.

9.  Turn on the hot water tap in your sink slowly to allow the air to pass through the pipe.

Continue to run the water until it runs steadily without air escaping.

This procedure may take up to 2 or 3 minutes. 

 

By proadAccountId-361762 01 May, 2017

Toilet clogs seem to happen at the most inopportune moments. Fortunately, you can clear most clogs yourself without having to pay a plumber. Most clogs can be cleared with a good plunger or homemade drain cleaner made with hot water, baking soda and vinegar. For deeper clogs, try snaking the drain or using a wet/dry vacuum to do the job.

1.   Keep the toilet from overflowing.

If your toilet doesn't flush properly after one flush, don't flush again. This will cause more water to be pumped into the toilet bowl. Instead, take the lid off of the toilet tank and close the toilet flapper. Closing the flapper will keep more water from entering the bowl.

2.   Prep the bathroom.

In case splashing occurs, place newspapers or paper towels on the floor to soak up liquid. The paper will make for easier cleanup later. You should also turn on the ventilation fan or open a window to minimize foul odors.

3.   See if you can clear the obstruction.

If you can see the cause of the clog, reach in and remove it from the toilet if possible. If you can't clear it with your hands, but you know there's an object (such as a child's toy) causing the clog, skip the plunging and go straight to another method.

4.   Use a high quality plunger.

It is important to use a large heavy-duty rubber plunger, either the ball-shaped type or one with a fold-out rubber flange on the bottom which forms a seal.

5.   Insert the plunger into the bowl.

Make sure the plunger completely covers the hole. The plunger should be submerged in water to be effective. It is important to be pushing and pulling with water, not air. Add water from the sink to the bowl if necessary.

Pump the plunger over the hole. Start slowly at first, since the first plunge will push air into the bowl. Push down, then pull up sharply to disturb the clog and loosen it. Continue vigorously pushing and pulling until the water begins to drain.

6.   Flush the toilet to check the drainage.

If the plunging eventually drains the bowl, but the clog is still blocking a free flow down the drain, leave the plunger in the bowl and fill the bowl with water again.

Fill it to the point it is normally after a regular flush, then plunge again. Stubborn clogs might require you to do this a number of times.

7.   Purchase an enzyme waste removal product.

Look for a product that contains a mixture of enzymes that liquify waste materials. These enzymes are used in septic systems to break down waste, follow the instructions on the container.

Pour the recommended amount of the enzyme product into the toilet bowl. You will typically be instructed to wait overnight for the enzymes to go to work on the clog. The toilet should drain once the clog has cleared.

8.   Heat half a gallon of water.

If the toilet tends to clog easily as the result of trying to flush too much waste, using a combination of hot water, baking soda and vinegar will often do the job as well as a commercial drain cleaner. Boil half a gallon of water, then let it cool for a moment while you add other ingredients to the toilet bowl. The water should be no hotter than a hot tea you can drink comfortably.

It should not be boiling, since very hot water can crack porcelain. You want to raise the temperature of the water passing around or pressing on the clog.

9.   Pour 1 cup baking soda and 2 cups vinegar into the toilet.

The baking soda and vinegar create a chemical process that help to dissolve clogs.

Distilled white vinegar is commonly used, but any type of vinegar will work. The mixture will fizz a great deal.

10.                 Add Soap.

If you don't have baking soda and vinegar on hand, try adding a few squirts of dish soap to the toilet bowl.

The soap may help to loosen the clog. our the hot water into the bowl. Pour it from waist level, rather than right near the rim. The force of the water falling into the bowl can help to clear the clog.

Let the mixture stand overnight. In the morning, the water should have drained. This homemade drain cleaner should successfully clear clogs caused by organic material. If the water won't flush on your second try, you may have hard obstruction causing the clog. Try using a wire coat hanger or a drain snake.

11.                 Purchase a chemical drain cleaner.

They're available at most grocery, hardware, and "big box" stores.

Use this method only as a last resort. The chemicals used in drain cleaners are toxic to people and pets, corrosive to pipes and very damaging to the environment. Only use chemicals that are specifically made for toilets. Using other drain cleaners may damage your toilet.

* If you suspect that there is a hard obstruction, do not use a chemical solution. Instead, use a snake or call a plumber.

Do you want to know more details? Go to Wiky How

By proadAccountId-361762 18 Apr, 2017

Changing your refrigerator water filter is the kind of routine maintenance that can be easily put off, but just like the batteries in your smoke alarm or the oil in your car, it’s important to keep a regular schedule.

Most manufacturer guidelines recommend that you replace your water filters every six months. Of course, these guidelines are based more on broad situations – rather than your specific situation. If your family uses a heavier than average amount of water, your filter could expire early, meaning it will no longer be reducing particulates and contaminants effectively. In fact, if you wait too long, your old refrigerator water filter may actually be growing bacteria and mold.

So how do you know when it’s time to change your refrigerator water filter?

You may notice a “decreased flow.” Your ice maker may have stopped making ice cubes plural, and decided to make one dirty singular cube, instead. Of course, most refrigerators will also have a status indicator light in your fridge that can give you a helpful idea.

But overall, the most effective way to determine if your refrigerator water filter is shot is simply to explore your palate for an unpleasant taste or odor. The type of contaminants reduced by a properly functioning filter will appear more and more as your filter ages. And when it gets to the point that you start to notice – whether that’s three months, six months – or even nine months – it’s time to make a change.

If your refrigerator dispenses water, chances are it uses a water filter. And if it’s been a long time since you’ve replaced it, the inside of it may be clogged with some of the gunk and the crusty ice cubes below are likely an all too familiar image, it’s time to make a change
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